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Very Hot Topic (More than 25 Replies) My 1969 Shelby GT350 (Read 5,095 times)
David R
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Hertz GT350H

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Location: Miami, Fl. USA
Joined: May 30th, 2014
Re: My 1969 Shelby GT350
Reply #93 - Sep 23rd, 2018 at 8:18pm
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07-16-2018, 01:20 AM
I finished up the battery install, you can see the radiator overflow in front of the battery as well:


Installed the steering column and adjusted the steering box:


Changed the break-in*oil, cut open the filter and looked at the element and debris that got left in the filter:


And started cleaning my rims. The one on the right has been cleaned, the one on the left, not yet:
  
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David R
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Hertz GT350H

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Location: Miami, Fl. USA
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Re: My 1969 Shelby GT350
Reply #92 - Sep 23rd, 2018 at 8:17pm
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07-15-2018, 11:59 PM
And the other parts with the exception of the back ordered shift rod hardware arrived 2 days later in a padded envelope.
  
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David R
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Hertz GT350H

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Location: Miami, Fl. USA
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Re: My 1969 Shelby GT350
Reply #91 - Sep 23rd, 2018 at 8:16pm
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07-13-2018, 01:45 PM
I ordered the shifter mounting hardware and shift rod bushings/hardware from CJPony. They showed they had all parts in stock at one location and 2 parts in the other location. A Shipping notice that arrived via email told me my package was on the way, arrival would be about a week after placing my order. So today the box arrives and it contains 1 of the 5 items I ordered. One item is back ordered and 3 are being shipped from their other location. When ordering online they showed that all items were in-stock, and I only got notice of 1 package being sent. Not sure why they did not notify me an item was out of stock nor why they chose to ship from 2 locations when they stated they had all the items at 1 of the locations. Also wondering if the 2nd box has even shipped. I'm so happy I normally use NPD. In this case, NPD did not carry the Automatic Shift Rod bushings/hardware. Sad
  
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David R
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Hertz GT350H

Posts: 157
Location: Miami, Fl. USA
Joined: May 30th, 2014
Re: My 1969 Shelby GT350
Reply #90 - Sep 23rd, 2018 at 8:16pm
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07-08-2018, 09:36 PM
A friend with a Buick GN in the garage stopped by so I started it up for him. This is the 3rd time it has been run. The white smoke came back for a little bit. You can hear the Pete Jackson "Noisy" gear drive, but it's not as noisy as I was told it would be.

https://redshost.com/media/GT350R3rdRun/index.html
  
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David R
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Hertz GT350H

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Location: Miami, Fl. USA
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Re: My 1969 Shelby GT350
Reply #89 - Sep 23rd, 2018 at 8:15pm
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07-01-2018, 04:19 PM
my Exide group 24 battery with an Autolite battery topper, a repro heat shield and repro battery hold down hiding it. My yellow top coil is a Pertronix epoxy filled coil that is matched to the Ignitor III under the distributor cap.
  
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David R
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Hertz GT350H

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Location: Miami, Fl. USA
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Re: My 1969 Shelby GT350
Reply #88 - Sep 23rd, 2018 at 8:13pm
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06-15-2018, 12:21 AM
Finally got it started today. Ran for about 10 min when a plug wire came off the cap and I shut it down to fix. After that it was hard to turn over even after changing out to another battery, guessing the pre 1990 starter is having issues.

http://redshost.com/gt350/video/GT350-1.mp4

http://redshost.com/gt350/video/GT350-4.mp4
  
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David R
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Hertz GT350H

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Location: Miami, Fl. USA
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Re: My 1969 Shelby GT350
Reply #87 - Sep 23rd, 2018 at 8:12pm
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06-11-2018, 09:21 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Klutch
Likely, you won't be able to prime it manually. When I first started my 1970 a few months ago, I poured some gas into the carburetor bowl through the vent. That allowed the engine to start which quickly sucked fuel from the tank.

If the engine starts, but then dies because your not getting any fuel in the carburetor bowls, then you'll know something is wrong with the fuel system.


60 psi of air pressure @ the fuel line where it goes through the front fender skirt and none of it is blowing out the fuel line in front of the tank at the back of the car. I think I found the problem. Smiley
  
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David R
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Hertz GT350H

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Location: Miami, Fl. USA
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Re: My 1969 Shelby GT350
Reply #86 - Sep 23rd, 2018 at 8:11pm
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06-11-2018, 08:37 PM
I drained the tank, disconnected the hard line from the tank and air pressure failed to pass through the hard line. Removed the rubber joint under the driver's floor and was able to blow through the front section, but not the rear. I again thoroughly inspected the line and found no damage to the outside of the hard line. If there is rust and/or other debris in the line, I don't want that line. Looks like I'll be placing an order for a new line tonight.
  
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David R
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Hertz GT350H

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Location: Miami, Fl. USA
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Re: My 1969 Shelby GT350
Reply #85 - Sep 23rd, 2018 at 8:11pm
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06-11-2018, 05:31 PM
Does the fuel tank sender assembly have a check valve in it? I was trying to prime my fuel pump to fill my carb but no-go. I pulled the fuel line off the input side of the (mechanical) fuel pump and there is no fuel. I tried to blow into it and it only built up pressure in the line. I just installed a new tank and sender assembly so not sure that would be the problem. I'd pop the sender out but I've got 6 gallon of gas in it now and would have to empty it to check it else I'm going to get gas everwhere. I visually checked the hard line and find no kinks or bends that would restrict the flow.
  
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David R
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Hertz GT350H

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Location: Miami, Fl. USA
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Re: My 1969 Shelby GT350
Reply #84 - Sep 23rd, 2018 at 8:11pm
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06-01-2018, 01:54 PM
NPD has finally failed me. Hopefully someone here has the answer.

I have an OEM style hose clamp set that I purchased back in the 90's, not sure who from. It has the 4 large radiator wire hose clamps and 6 smaller heater hose clamps. This works well till you add the heater control valve that I got from NPD. I also have the NPD Mustang HEATER HOSE, CONCOURS to connect all this together. The problem is, no place is the size of the clamps mentioned nor were the 2 clamps for the heater valve included. So, I need to purchase 2 more clamps, I'm assuming the same size as in the hose clamp set. I called NPD in Ocala and unfortunately, the salesperson told me I'd have to go and measure the hose or ask a concourse judge.

Can anyone tell me what size hose clamp is used on the heater control valve with the proper heater hose (hose size is also not listed in the NPD catalog) that I am sure is also the same size that goes on the heater core and the water pump?

Sizes listed on the NPD site are: 1 1/16 INCH, 1 1/4 INCH, and 1 1/16 INCH, and 1 3/4 INCH (this one seems a little large?)

Thank you, and apologies if this seems a little trivial, but I do not have the car where I am, and I am sure my local NAPA parts counter guy would go and find out what fits what for me rather than telling me I need to ask a concourse judge!
  
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David R
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Hertz GT350H

Posts: 157
Location: Miami, Fl. USA
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Re: My 1969 Shelby GT350
Reply #83 - Sep 23rd, 2018 at 8:10pm
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04-23-2018, 03:23 PM
Got a quick shipment from NPD which included the steering ram drop bracket. Though I did not want to have to use one, I will say it looks like a nice piece. I might take it back off and round off the edges to make it look a little more like the original, at least from a side view.


  
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David R
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Hertz GT350H

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Location: Miami, Fl. USA
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Re: My 1969 Shelby GT350
Reply #82 - Sep 23rd, 2018 at 8:06pm
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04-18-2018, 06:33 PM

I purchased a Grams Wideband 02 sensor to help me tune my Holley HP 750 carb. It came with Bosh 17025 5 wire LSU 4.9 heated sensor. My JBA H pipe has a pair of 02 sensor bungs installed as you can see in the attached photo between the bell housing and main body of the FMX. A while back I think I read that you can damage a "heated" 02 sensor if you do not power it up when you run the engine. Anyone know if this is true or not?

As I only have a single meter, I was hoping to buy a 2nd 02 sensor and have both pigtails in the car and switch back and forth so as not to have to crawl under the car and move the sensor back and forth to sample each bank.

Yea, now I see there are gauges that have two sensor inputs, but that was after I purchased this one, and they are also a bit more pricey than the $150 that I paid for my Grams kit. Grams also seems to be a respected brand.
  
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David R
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Hertz GT350H

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Location: Miami, Fl. USA
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Re: My 1969 Shelby GT350
Reply #81 - Sep 23rd, 2018 at 8:05pm
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04-18-2018, 03:51 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Target
Great work. She sure looks clean under there

I'm curious, how much of the original rear trim/lights/etc were you able to reuse or have chromed?


Thanks, but I notice the camera does pick up many of the flaws, dirt, and areas that do need attention.

You might remember that I had to have both doors, rear quarters, and almost all other exterior sheet metal behind the roof including the trunk drop offs replaced.

All of the fiberglass on the car is original, at least its what was on the car when I got it in 1981. Remembering that it was rear-ended at least twice before I got it, I can not say that it is all as delivered, but all the parts do have Ford/AO Smith numbers on them.

The exhaust collector (behind the rear valance) and outlet pod are also Ford/AO Smith parts, but not original to my car. I acquired them in the 80's as my originals were too rotted out to use. I spent a lot of time fixing them up as they were pretty beat up. Due to discoloring in the aluminum I ended up spraying the exhaust parts with high temp aluminum caliper paint to help protect the insides from the exhaust and to give them a uniform color.

The rear valance is from NPD. After Andrew much of my car developed surface rust on the lower panels and it was best to replace this inexpensive part rather than dealing with the pitting the rust left behind on the previous repro part. For the 69 Shelby, you have to cut out the license plate mount area for the exhaust pod to exit. They do not come this way.

Unfortunately, all the rear chrome had to be replaced, it all did look original to the car. The backup lights are Scott Drake, the tail light lenses and bezels are from Branda.

The bumper was bent and rusted like everything else. I went with an NPD American Legion bumper and mounting hardware. I have modified the bumper mounts so I have to play with the fit, but I think it would be perfect for a stock Mustang.

Not shown is the 3 piece stainless trimmed black expanded metal inserts that go on the trunk and quarter extensions. The stainless trim was badly pitted and un-useable so a new 3 piece set was purchased from Branda.

The lettering "S H E L B Y" does not come with the insert, but I was lucky and purchased a set of NOS letters back in the 80's. The originals are also badly corroded.

Along with my NOS lettering purchase, I also picked up NOS front and rear side marker lights and matching bezels, and the Cobra Snake emblems that go on the outside sail panel areas.

I have saved all the parts that I can, maybe someday I can find a place that can re-chrome some of the better valuable parts. Seems there are no good chroming places that I can find in So Florida. But many of the parts are pitted so badly they would almost have to re-fabricate them to get a good chrome finish, that it's not really going to be an original part anymore, and it's going to be very expensive. I got a quote for my fold down seat trim between $1000 to $1200 depending on the condition, which mine are bad. I got all new Dynacorn parts for around $300.
  
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David R
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Hertz GT350H

Posts: 157
Location: Miami, Fl. USA
Joined: May 30th, 2014
Re: My 1969 Shelby GT350
Reply #80 - Sep 23rd, 2018 at 8:04pm
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04-18-2018, 01:57 PM
Past couple of days, I had installed more body parts on the back of the car and then spent all day yesterday putting in the front steering parts and figuring out how to get those two short hoses attached to the steering control to the power ram correctly. They have prebent ends and I spend hours on my back trying different combinations till I just unbolted the center link and power ram, installed the hoses and then pushed it all back up in place. I also noticed that the drivers side H pipe is way too close to the power steering ram so I will have to get a small, about 1" drop to get the rubber boot on the ram to clear the H pipe.


Those two items hanging from the rear valance are LED lights that need to go into the taillight panel.

  
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David R
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Hertz GT350H

Posts: 157
Location: Miami, Fl. USA
Joined: May 30th, 2014
Re: My 1969 Shelby GT350
Reply #79 - Sep 23rd, 2018 at 8:03pm
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04-15-2018, 02:48 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by JD08
I've got a 70 351 Cleveland with AC and PS. If nobody else steps up with an exact match, I'll try to remember to take a picture. If it seems like it's taking me too long, I forgot, so just PM me.

By the way, you're making some nice progress.


W/O drawing on the photos I know it makes it hard to see exactly what I am looking at. the A/C compressor bracket is bolted to the head. That one is not the issue. Its the other one that goes up and attaches to the top of the compressor, where that bracket mounts to the water pump. Looks like one mount shares the same bolt as the power steering bracket on the water pump. The upper A/C bracket is where the idler/tension pully goes, and to me it looks like this bracket it leaning back. Maybe its just me.



  
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