Page Index Toggle Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 9
Topic Tools
Very Hot Topic (More than 25 Replies) My 1969 Shelby GT350 (Read 5,086 times)
David R
Administrator
Offline


Hertz GT350H

Posts: 157
Location: Miami, Fl. USA
Joined: May 30th, 2014
Re: My 1969 Shelby GT350
Reply #123 - Sep 27th, 2018 at 11:48pm
Post Tools
Getting more things ready

OEM NOS lettering




Made some pigtailes with diodes to keep the lights from backfeeding the brake lights into the running/park lights, or visa versa.


And we get this

  
Back to top
 
IP Logged
 
David R
Administrator
Offline


Hertz GT350H

Posts: 157
Location: Miami, Fl. USA
Joined: May 30th, 2014
Re: My 1969 Shelby GT350
Reply #122 - Sep 23rd, 2018 at 8:39pm
Post Tools
09-12-2018, 01:42 PM
Slight delay on the progress of the car as I am not feeling my best, and with Florence out there, it has reminded me that I need to resolve an issue with my trailer. When I was towing with my Navigator, I had modified some slip-on extension mirrors that allowed me to see down the sides of the trailer while towing. My new Excursion has the slide out tow mirrors, but even fully extended, I can not see down the sides of the trailer. In traffic, this makes it hard to know if it is safe to make a lane change or not.

A while back I had picked up the hardware to expand the single backup camera on the trailer to a 4 camera setup, adding one camera to each side of the trailer and one more inside so I can watch the load. The camera's and wiring will be permanently installed on the trailer, but I am making the vehicle harness loose, so that it can be moved to any tow vehicle. I have finished this harness, but need to spend time in the trailer, installing the 3 additional cameras.
  
Back to top
 
IP Logged
 
David R
Administrator
Offline


Hertz GT350H

Posts: 157
Location: Miami, Fl. USA
Joined: May 30th, 2014
Re: My 1969 Shelby GT350
Reply #121 - Sep 23rd, 2018 at 8:39pm
Post Tools
09-09-2018, 11:07 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Blue Blood
...
and anyone else,

I must apologize if I seem a little snippy. On top of my normal back problems and accompanying pain, I had knee surgery a couple of weeks ago and at times it hurts like a mother! So it's not you, it's me.
  
Back to top
 
IP Logged
 
David R
Administrator
Offline


Hertz GT350H

Posts: 157
Location: Miami, Fl. USA
Joined: May 30th, 2014
Re: My 1969 Shelby GT350
Reply #120 - Sep 23rd, 2018 at 8:38pm
Post Tools
09-09-2018, 10:50 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Turnall
Why do you think the engine temp got to 217* with the 190 thermostat if the radiator does not have a problem dissipating heat? It's my understanding that the thermostats job is to allow the engine to get to operating temperature sooner for optimal performance but that it does not control the engines top end running temperature. In other words an engine with no thermostat will run the same temp as an engine with a 190 thermostat provided the engine will run above 190* anyway (which you state yours ran up to 217* with the 190 thermostat).

I'm just wondering and interested in the answer, not doubting what you are seeing with your engine.

Still following your build...

Allen


217 deg was the highest temp I recorded from my non-contact thermal gun, when scanning between the thermostat housing to the top of the radiator. It did average lower during the break-in and further runs. Correct, the thermostat will not control the upper temps, just the lower. My observations show that the 190 deg thermostat might be closing while the engine is running as there are at times, very low visible flow in the radiator at times. It is of my opinion, that the cooling system of my car will allow the engine to operate below 190 deg. My cooling system consists of:

Evans Waterless coolant
High volume water pump
New 3 row 24" aluminum radiator
Fresh engine build, block & heads hot tanked so the water passages have been cleaned out
Factory 5 blade flex fan
Original style (repro) fan shroud

The heads and intake are back on, just need to finish adding all the other items and I should be ready to start it up in a day or two and see if I am correct, or not.

Now I still have to add the A/C. The condenser is in place, but not hooked up. Adding the extra heat from the A/C might throw all of this off. But it still just a change in the Thermostat.
  
Back to top
 
IP Logged
 
David R
Administrator
Offline


Hertz GT350H

Posts: 157
Location: Miami, Fl. USA
Joined: May 30th, 2014
Re: My 1969 Shelby GT350
Reply #119 - Sep 23rd, 2018 at 8:37pm
Post Tools
09-09-2018, 10:14 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Blue Blood
The stated temp of the T stat sets the temp that it will be open 100%, not the temp the motor will run. If your fan and/or radiator are not working correctly a cooler T stat will not cure anything related to a motor running hot. It may delay, but won’t cure. If you’re using electric fans, and the fans are set to come on to its high speed at the temp of T stat, AND the radiator is large enough to dissipate the heat, then you have a good chance at maintaining that temp. If the radiator is too small, or fans don’t move enough air, you WILL exceed the T stat temp and temp will rise to the level at which fan and radiator will perform. Simply put, fan (air movement) and radiator control temp.

You really should have read the previous post. " I am not saying it will have a running temp of 160, just that it will lower under hood temps." Also, maybe a few more before that. I used to run a 180 deg, and it ran just a bit above that. All that I read when I switched over to Evans, said to up the t-stat by 10 deg, so I did. But now I find things under the hood are a bit hotter than they used to be. This makes sense as I upped the engine temp by 10 deg by changing the t-stat to a 190 deg. I am not having an engine overheating issue. As a matter of fact, I feel that the fresh engine, new radiator, factory flex fan, and factory fan shroud are doing a fantastic job! So much so that I can reduce the t-stat back to the 180 deg. But, while I am at it, why not see if I can drop it a little lower, drop the under hood temps. So I have installed a 160 deg t-stat. Again, " I am not saying it will have a running temp of 160, just that it will lower under hood temps." The hood is fiberglass and the 69 Shelby hoods are known to bow due to the heat and the hood springs. So this is just an effort to lower the engine temp, which will thus reduce the temp of coolant in the radiator, and thus dissipate less heat under hood. And all this is with the car sitting still. Wait till it starts moving and all that fresh cool air is drawn in the radiator and scoops on the hood.
  
Back to top
 
IP Logged
 
David R
Administrator
Offline


Hertz GT350H

Posts: 157
Location: Miami, Fl. USA
Joined: May 30th, 2014
Re: My 1969 Shelby GT350
Reply #118 - Sep 23rd, 2018 at 8:37pm
Post Tools
09-08-2018, 01:57 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Redneckgearhead
You're only lowering the minimum temp an engine can run with the 160° t stat, not the running temp.

Sent from my Moto Z (2) using Tapatalk


Changing the lower temp limit, correct. So you are saying, that when I changed from the 180 deg to the 190 deg, that my running temp did not go up? I am sure it did. So thus, by changing back to a 180 deg, it should lower? changing from a 190 deg to a 170 deg will lower temps, as well as changing from a 190 deg to a 160 deg will lower temps. I am not saying it will have a running temp of 160, just that it will lower under hood temps. The engine temps will be lower initially, as the 160 deg t-stat opens and allows the coolant to flow through the radiator earlier, at a lower temp thus allowing more time before it reaches higher temps.

I had read that with the Evens, my engine would be running about 10 deg higher than it did before, and to up the t-stat 10 deg. In my new build, I changed to an aluminum radiator, same 24", same 3 row. Not sure how much of a difference that made, but it seems to me I may not be seeing a 10 deg increase in engine temp with the Evens. So by changing to the 190 deg, I have forced the engine temp up, and as a result, the underhood temp. With a 160 deg t-stat, I will at least see what the low end possibilities will be.
  
Back to top
 
IP Logged
 
David R
Administrator
Offline


Hertz GT350H

Posts: 157
Location: Miami, Fl. USA
Joined: May 30th, 2014
Re: My 1969 Shelby GT350
Reply #117 - Sep 23rd, 2018 at 8:36pm
Post Tools
09-08-2018, 12:27 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Redneckgearhead
I'm not sure the 160° t stat is going to lower your underhood temps in the slightest. The heat produced is still the same. Allowing the radiator to remove heat sooner isn't going to change that as the radiator is under the hood.



Sent from my Moto Z (2) using Tapatalk


If using a 190 deg t-stat forces the engine to 190 deg before the t-stat opens, then we are forcing the engine to run at least at that temp. The radiator then cools the coolant before it goes back into the engine and it is going back in at a lower temp than the 190 deg. The air that comes through the radiator is heated relative to the temp of the radiator, granted the thermal exchange is not 1:1 or near that, so it is less.

So you don't think that by lowering the engine temp, and thus the temp of the coolant through the radiator is going to change the temp of the air that passes through the radiator via the thermal exchange?
  
Back to top
 
IP Logged
 
David R
Administrator
Offline


Hertz GT350H

Posts: 157
Location: Miami, Fl. USA
Joined: May 30th, 2014
Re: My 1969 Shelby GT350
Reply #116 - Sep 23rd, 2018 at 8:35pm
Post Tools
09-07-2018, 11:27 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Blue Blood
If you’re running rich, using a 160* thermostat isn’t going to help. Even in my stroked 5.0L with a 2200 Kenne Bell the motor ran much better with a 180* than it did the 160*.

Maybe, but the 190, which was suggested when running the Evens Waterless coolant, is too high. Forcing the engine up to 190 before allowing the radiator to do its job. The radiator seems to be doing that quite well as the temps do not go much over 200, but the dissipated heat does soak everything in the engine compartment, making everything else fairly hot, and I have not even had the hood on the car yet. That is also a worry as it is the fiberglass hood, and many know the 69-70 hoods tend to bow, with heat being one factor for this. So reducing the under-hood temps would be beneficial whether it helps with the rich condition or not.
  
Back to top
 
IP Logged
 
David R
Administrator
Offline


Hertz GT350H

Posts: 157
Location: Miami, Fl. USA
Joined: May 30th, 2014
Re: My 1969 Shelby GT350
Reply #115 - Sep 23rd, 2018 at 8:34pm
Post Tools
09-06-2018, 05:17 PM
Just used my piston stop and using the stock pointer on the timing chain cover, the Summit Harmonic markings (I'll say that as opposed to my factory timing indicator being off) are off by 5 deg (negative). I had stopped trying to adjust the timing with the light as it was wanting way more timing. This explains it.
  
Back to top
 
IP Logged
 
David R
Administrator
Offline


Hertz GT350H

Posts: 157
Location: Miami, Fl. USA
Joined: May 30th, 2014
Re: My 1969 Shelby GT350
Reply #114 - Sep 23rd, 2018 at 8:34pm
Post Tools
09-06-2018, 04:44 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by 68Hildago
Sounds like you have troubleshooted quite a lot already. Hopefully someone will chime in with some more suggestions.

As you know, white smoke typically means burning coolant. You mention all of the plugs were black, one of them should of been cleaner if burning coolant.

Possibly a bad head gasket?


If it was running great with lots of power, I would guess you are on the right track by reducing the jet sizes to try and lean it out.


I am questioning the head locator pin as seen in the previous photos. Normally they are inserted in the block. This one looks to be, and was pressed into the head at a slight angle. Its possible it might have not allowed the head to seat properly on the block. The head gaskets both look good, new even. No markings that would indicate a blown gasket or gasket failure. All 8 plugs are black as are all 8 combustion chambers. All 8 pistons are clean, look like they were just put in.

The factory intake, I did originally have problems getting a good cooling pressure seal around the water ports and thermostat area until I used Aviation Form a gasket on it, and changed from the Felpro gasket to the Mr Gasket 210 intake gaskets.
  
Back to top
 
IP Logged
 
David R
Administrator
Offline


Hertz GT350H

Posts: 157
Location: Miami, Fl. USA
Joined: May 30th, 2014
Re: My 1969 Shelby GT350
Reply #113 - Sep 23rd, 2018 at 8:33pm
Post Tools
09-06-2018, 02:48 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by 68Hildago
Low hanging fruit would be to:
-Check for weak coil/spark
-Firing order
-Timing

Did you install the heads yourself? Factory cam/pushrods/rockers?

When you had it running, did it run rough? (popping, low on power)


New Pertronix Ignitor III, w/matching Flame Thrower coil.

Firing order checked many times

Timing set but only from the markings on the balancer. I am going to use a piston stop today and verify the TDC on the balancer and the timing mark on the timing chain cover match.

Built the engine myself. Comp Cams 280H cam, pushrods, springs and rocker KIT. Fresh valve job with SS valves. 1969 351w bored to 060 over and stroked to 414ci. Holley Pro 750 vacuum carb on the factory Shelby medium rise dual plane intake. Cam is straight up, dialed it in to verify all the specs. 13" of vacuum at idle and its running smooth. No missing, or popping, backfiring, etc. Seems to have plenty of power, feels like it would spin the tires all the way down the street if I kept my foot into it. No hesitation and it will sit and idle, running about 217 deg max all day.
  
Back to top
 
IP Logged
 
David R
Administrator
Offline


Hertz GT350H

Posts: 157
Location: Miami, Fl. USA
Joined: May 30th, 2014
Re: My 1969 Shelby GT350
Reply #112 - Sep 23rd, 2018 at 8:32pm
Post Tools
09-06-2018, 01:17 PM
Next, I have just not been able to get the engine to run correctly. It would occasionally put out white smoke, the plugs are just black no matter how much I lean out the idle screws. I've only driven it around the block twice so all the other run time has been idle/non load in the driveway. I pulled the plugs, yes, all are black, and put one of those scopes down the plug hole to have a look. Pistons are shiny new looking, hone marks are still on the walls. I attached the mirror and looked up at the combustion chamber and all I can see is black. Not soot black, but rough bumpy black. I pulled the carb, turned it over and checked the transition slots. They look to be within spec, not tipping into the mains at idle. Pull the bowls off and find 75 jets in the front, 76 jets in the rear. Too big for my motor. Power valve is a 4.8, which might be too small, but I'll leave it for now. I've ordered 5 sets of smaller jets, 73, 71, 69, 67, and 65. Overall the carb is clean.

I pulled the intake and heads. All 8 pistons look perfect.


Each combustion chamber is full of black residue, in the chamber and out the exhaust ports. I have to wire wheel the chambers, valves to get most of it off. Feels like old hard gum. Engine cleaner and a brass brush are used to finish cleaning the chambers and the ports are soaking in engine cleaner.


Oil is clean, the cooling system is clean. I was running a 190 deg thermostat with the Evens Waterless but am going to drop it to a 160 deg as it seemed to me everything in the engine compartment was getting way too hot (hot to the touch) and the hottest I ever saw the engine get up to was 217 deg. Seems the radiator does not have a problem dissipating the heat, so I'll let it start cooling earlier instead of waiting till the engine is up to 190.
  
Back to top
 
IP Logged
 
David R
Administrator
Offline


Hertz GT350H

Posts: 157
Location: Miami, Fl. USA
Joined: May 30th, 2014
Re: My 1969 Shelby GT350
Reply #111 - Sep 23rd, 2018 at 8:30pm
Post Tools
09-06-2018, 12:57 PM
These arrived today. Legendary Wheel Co. GT9 Alloy Wheel And Tire Package 17"x7" & 17" x 8" with the Nitto NT555 G2 Street Sport tires, 235/45 & 245/45.


My factory Shelby center caps do not fit, so I have to order the set from Legendary/CJ Pony, but my factory lug nuts DO fit, so at least I won't have to worry about having an extra set of those to worry about.
  
Back to top
 
IP Logged
 
David R
Administrator
Offline


Hertz GT350H

Posts: 157
Location: Miami, Fl. USA
Joined: May 30th, 2014
Re: My 1969 Shelby GT350
Reply #110 - Sep 23rd, 2018 at 8:29pm
Post Tools
08-29-2018, 05:02 PM
As I'm on restricted duty due to my knee, I have started on my steering wheel. I've had this chrome tape since the 90's and the sticky on the back is not really sticking anymore, so I swabbed in some elmers and let it dry overnight. Next is to fill the gap in (over the silver tape) with some clear 5 min epoxy.


The black back side only has 1 crack to fill, the top "wood" side is in pretty good shape. It's going to get scrubbed and then painted with a mixture of black and dark brown paint. Then some extra fine steel wool to take it off the raised areas leaving the "scratches" dark to give it a better wood look. The top will then be sprayed with a satin clear coat.
  
Back to top
 
IP Logged
 
David R
Administrator
Offline


Hertz GT350H

Posts: 157
Location: Miami, Fl. USA
Joined: May 30th, 2014
Re: My 1969 Shelby GT350
Reply #109 - Sep 23rd, 2018 at 8:29pm
Post Tools
08-21-2018, 11:03 AM
The mid-dash harness also connects the Shelby engine bay harness to the console harness. The oil pressure is moved from the deluxe dash to the center console so there is wiring in the engine compartment that taps into the factory engine harness and re-routes the oil pressure to the mid-harness, then to the console harness.
  
Back to top
 
IP Logged
 
Page Index Toggle Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 9
Topic Tools
Bookmarks: del.icio.us Digg Facebook Google Google+ Linked in reddit StumbleUpon Twitter Yahoo