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Very Hot Topic (More than 25 Replies) My 1969 Shelby GT350 (Read 5,996 times)
David R
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Hertz GT350H

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Location: Miami, Fl. USA
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Re: My 1969 Shelby GT350
Reply #108 - Sep 23rd, 2018 at 8:28pm
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08-21-2018, 10:57 AM
I just needed a good nights sleep. I pulled the rear wiring harness up and what do you know, they match the Shelby specific mid-dash wire harness. The Shelby rear harness connections are different, in that they have two 4 pin plugs instead of the 3 pin plugs. This is one of the reasons for the mid-dash harness, to adapt the 3 pin connections on the mustang dash harness to the 4 pin connections for the rear harness.


All these connections have been moved to behind the dash where they belong.
  
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David R
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Hertz GT350H

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Re: My 1969 Shelby GT350
Reply #107 - Sep 23rd, 2018 at 8:27pm
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08-17-2018, 04:21 PM
Maybe I just needed sleep and a fresh perspective with the Shelby mid-dash wiring harness. Once I brought in the center console wiring, the rear harness wiring (Shelby specific), and my old burnt mid-harness wiring, I didn't even have to put much thought into how things connected to the new mid-dash wiring. As Jeff stated, the plugs had the proper number of pins and the correct color and just went together, mostly. There is still the brake pedal connector, only 1 wire from the mid-dash harness is there, I guess the other comes from the standard dash wiring. One part that threw me off, is the Shelby engine bay wiring to mid-dash wiring. On the 4 pin plug, the White with Red stripe and the gray wires are connected to each other, but the larger Black with yellow stripe wire changes positions with the Black wire. These wires end up on the Alternator gauge on the console, so not sure if that is going to make a difference or not.

Photos to follow.

1 week till knee surgery!
  
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David R
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Hertz GT350H

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Location: Miami, Fl. USA
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Re: My 1969 Shelby GT350
Reply #106 - Sep 23rd, 2018 at 8:27pm
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08-16-2018, 11:11 PM
Does anyone have any knowledge on the Shelby specific wiring for the 69 model? I have purchased replacement harnesses for the ones that got burnt but now need assistance in where they plug in. Engine compartment wires are in, console wires are in. There is one more harness that connects to other areas that I am not sure about. Note the bundle of wires just above the drivers side A/C vent.
  
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David R
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Hertz GT350H

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Location: Miami, Fl. USA
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Re: My 1969 Shelby GT350
Reply #105 - Sep 23rd, 2018 at 8:26pm
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08-15-2018, 11:41 PM
Still have a bit of hardware that I need to figure out where it goes.
  
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David R
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Hertz GT350H

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Location: Miami, Fl. USA
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Re: My 1969 Shelby GT350
Reply #104 - Sep 23rd, 2018 at 8:26pm
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08-15-2018, 11:40 PM
Spend the day laying out the wire harnesses to figure out what goes to what and where the wires need to run.

I was usinging the 1969 Mustang Wiring Diagrams and trying to figure out why my pink resistor wire was not going to the ignition switch as illustrated. Then it hit me, it goes to a plug for the tachometer.


So the Run wire from the ignition switch goes to the Tach and then the resistor wire goes through the firewall where it meets with the engine wire harness. From there, there is a brown wire that goes back through the main harness to the fuse box connector where it goes back through the firewall, runs around the engine compartment and to the starter relay. This wire bypasses the resistor wire when the starter is engaged.

Now to figure out why my brake light pedal connector has been ripped(?) off and is missinging.

  
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David R
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Hertz GT350H

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Re: My 1969 Shelby GT350
Reply #103 - Sep 23rd, 2018 at 8:25pm
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08-11-2018, 01:34 PM
So, back to the lower dash and power steering. Below are the photos. There is so much stuff that goes onto and around the dash I feel lost just looking at it. Just have to keep plugging away, bolt on one thing at a time.


After replacing the PS core, I did have a leak at the high-pressure line, but PS was now working again. After my short drive, the leak has mostly stopped. Guess the heat and vibration finally made the hose seat seal.


Also finally used my Longacre Caster/Camber Gauge to bring the front end into something that makes it a bit easier to drive and steer.

Been up late the past couple of nights, gathering small parts and putting some of them together to make bigger parts.

  
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David R
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Hertz GT350H

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Re: My 1969 Shelby GT350
Reply #102 - Sep 23rd, 2018 at 8:24pm
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08-07-2018, 08:55 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by 69GT350H View Post
Hey Tony,

I'm not doing a concourse restoration, just a looks right and special event driver (including some high-performance driving). What do you see in my photos that might need attention?

Thanks!


Actually, anyone that wants to critique my work, let me know. I know the radiator is not correct, A/C compressor is not correct. I changed these for better operation & power. Painted them black so they do not stand out. JBA shorties are not correct, but they are hard to see, and the titanium ceramic coating makes them look a little original, a little.
  
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David R
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Hertz GT350H

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Location: Miami, Fl. USA
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Re: My 1969 Shelby GT350
Reply #101 - Sep 23rd, 2018 at 8:23pm
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08-07-2018, 08:39 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by NEFaurora
For '69 and '70 Shelbys and Especially '69-'70 Mustangs and Boss cars, Checkout Jack's website at "DeadNutsOn".... He specializes in '1969-1970' Concours Mustang Parts.

See his website here....

Dead Nuts On

)

Tony K.


Hey Tony,

I'm not doing a concourse restoration, just a looks right and special event driver (including some high-performance driving). What do you see in my photos that might need attention?

Thanks!
  
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David R
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Hertz GT350H

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Location: Miami, Fl. USA
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Re: My 1969 Shelby GT350
Reply #100 - Sep 23rd, 2018 at 8:22pm
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08-07-2018, 08:07 PM
Worked on fitting the lower dash in, did some more work to the power steering power control valve, and more work on the engine.



  
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David R
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Hertz GT350H

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Location: Miami, Fl. USA
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Re: My 1969 Shelby GT350
Reply #99 - Sep 23rd, 2018 at 8:21pm
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08-03-2018, 09:36 PM
Power steering is now leaking all over the place, but it worked great while it was hooked up. Had to take the belt off so I would not run it dry.

So it's been almost 4 years since I rebuilt the FMX usinging Ken BadShoe's rebuild video. Today I finally felt it was time to test it and see if it really does more than just go in and out of gear. Sorry for the small size of the video, it's from a friends iPhone. I keep telling him he needs an Android... 

http://redshost.com/media/firstdrive/

Yep, very little throttle as the video starts, the tires are just sitting there spinning.
  
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David R
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Hertz GT350H

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Re: My 1969 Shelby GT350
Reply #98 - Sep 23rd, 2018 at 8:21pm
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07-28-2018, 08:53 PM
Removed the pump/reservoir and pulled the reservoir off. In the photo, you can see the rust scale on the bottom. I'm guessinging some must of come off and gotten into the pump. I'm going to clean up the reservoir, flush the power valve and install a new pump in the reservoir. Hopefully, this will resolve the heat issue.
  
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David R
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Hertz GT350H

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Re: My 1969 Shelby GT350
Reply #97 - Sep 23rd, 2018 at 8:20pm
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07-21-2018, 11:50 AM
Filled the pump with Type F and rotated the pully by hand to get the fluid in the system a little. I put the belt on and started the engine. It did not take long for the power valve assembly to get up to 120 degrees and this time when I turned the wheel to the right the pump growled. I have ordered a new pump w/o reservoir to replace mine.
  
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David R
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Hertz GT350H

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Location: Miami, Fl. USA
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Re: My 1969 Shelby GT350
Reply #96 - Sep 23rd, 2018 at 8:20pm
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07-17-2018, 09:56 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Klutch
According to Dan at Chockostang, the ONLY thing to use in these power steering systems is Type F transmission fluid and NOT power steering fluid. He has stated online many times that usinging anything other than Type F will cause problems. So, I'm wondering if the Royal Purple steering fluid is what caused your problem.

I rebuilt the control valve last night, used my old one and a rebuild kit I did not use as I had purchased a complete reman unit. I do not have any more of the Royal Purple and the stuff that came out is kinda dark, so I'll go with standard Type F this time and monitor the temp of the system as the engine runs this time.

Will report back with what happens.
  
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David R
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Hertz GT350H

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Re: My 1969 Shelby GT350
Reply #95 - Sep 23rd, 2018 at 8:19pm
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07-16-2018, 01:54 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Boss5Oh
Heat could be caused by a restriction in the PS system somewhere? Another thought would be the PS fluid formulation. If not compatible with old components, you could have chemical breakdown? Unfortunately, now that the system is apart, you can't look for a hot component in the system. Before reassembly, you might want to pump fluid through the circuit to show there is flow. You could use a garden sprayer that would allow you to pressurize fluid and connect usinging a section of hose. Usinging a garden sprayer has been used to pre-oil an engine that has not run in a long while before start up.

Good luck, another mystery that needs to be solved.


Back in the 80's when I drove the car, the power steering worked and did not leak. I took the car off the road in 1990, the pump stored inside in a plastic bag full of fluid. The rest remained on the car where it spend a lot of time outside as well as inside. I put on all new hoses. I rebuilt the power ram, but my original control valve was so rusted I had to replace it with a reman unit. Before putting the pump back on the car, I turned it over and drained the old fluid, tuning the pully by hand to help get it all out. It was not chunky or full of any debris, just a little dark like fluid gets. I filled it with Synthetic Oil Royal Purple Max Ez P/S Fluid and did the 30 min cam break-in. That leads me to where I am now with the melted plastic parts. It must have gotten really hot. Yes, the question now is, why?
  
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David R
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Hertz GT350H

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Location: Miami, Fl. USA
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Re: My 1969 Shelby GT350
Reply #94 - Sep 23rd, 2018 at 8:19pm
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07-16-2018, 11:47 AM
What would make the power steering fluid get so hot that it would melt the plastic pieces in the power steering control valve? The power steering pump is the one that I got with the car back in 1981. It's not making any noise, not leaking, and topped off with fluid. The Control Valve is a new rebuilt I purchased about a year ago and put on the car recently. I did not know I had a problem as when I was breaking in the cam I never tried to steer the car. I started it up today and wanted to test the steering. It moved a little stiffly from lock to lock at first, then got better after a few turns. But when I got out of the car, I found it had squirted fluid out of the end of the control valve end cap all over the ground. When things cooled down I pulled the control valve cap and found this:

  
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